Hi again readers.
I write this after a few weeks of winter cycling in Portugal....highly recommended....then more weeks back at home riding with increasingly heavy panniers. On the most recent ride I carried panniers , tent and tools that weighed in at 40k. MUSCLES!!!😊. Kathy carries a fair load too.....including crisp packets, pillows and feather-light sleeping bags.. 😈 totalling 20k, but she also carries the daily shopping as we near day-end. Fairs, fair.
Those patient folk who have read my scratchings in the past know that I do love the pre-tour training where I eventually carry loads greater than the tour weight (expected to be 33kg) to allow the tour to be enjoyable from the start.
Those folk may also know that I am vulnerable to bouts of depression brought on by, annoyingly -for everyone, the simplest of things.....usually an unwanted surprise or .... disappointment in the behaviour, or words, of someone close.
The depression drags me down enough to stop me cycling and I stay indoors to wonder..... 'why?' One half of my brain tells me no harm is meant while the other, autistic- half, tells me that the 'cause' shouldn't have occurred and my melt-down continues......until I forget the initial cause and recovery to 'normal-person' commences.
In recent days I have been enduring such an episode. Luckily the near-by empty beaches are readily available and a couple of long walks with a bag and litter picker helped me back to a 'normal-person's mindset.
So, to those affected by my recent behaviour - now you know why, yet again, I was quiet and/or grumpy. Sorry. Xxx
Spare a thought for Kathy my saint-like tour (and life) partner who allows me space while I am in a destructive melt down and provides me with kindness and support while I disappear in to my darkened cave for a few days. To Kathy, too, sorry....Xxx love 💘you .
Right.....to things more entertaining........The training is nearly complete and we leave in 7 days to fly from Bristol to Beziers where a campsite on the Canal du Midi awaits. As we are flying , we have to buy vital-to-our-needs.... Camping Gas, when we arrive and the finding of such a vital item is a priority on day 1. I have found a Decathlon on the edge of town, but it is seemingly only accessible via a very busy dual carriageway ( with no cycle path) or, my preferred option, country lanes and dirt tracks both of which , on Google Map, are shown to be in poor condition.
The local cycle shop has provided manufacturer cardboard boxes and the bikes are soon to be dismantled and prepped ready to fly.
Bring it on. 😊
Step one is complete.....we travelled from home to Bristol with the assistance of our fine neighbour, Mark, after which, we enjoyed a recovery stroll around Bristol Quay.....highly recommended😊 and then headed to the home of cousin Cathy and husband Steve.
Many thanks, both, for your generous hospitality (food, wine and relaxed chat aplenty) XX
Step 2 starts now with a taxi to Brizzle airport with boxed bikes and 55k of baggage.
The only stress of this stage is caused by the worry of the condition of the bikes at the other end....keep 'em crossed folks. ☺
The planned route is:
Beziers
Agde
Montfrin
Avignon
Bedouin
Mont Ventoux
Orange
Montelimar
Lyon where we leave Le Rhone
Use the 1k tunnel through town to Le Soane
Macon where we leave the Saone
Digoin to join La Loire 😊
Orleans
Gien
Angers and a train home via Cherbourg ferry
Day1,2,3 and 4.
Well!!! It would seem that the finger crossing was insufficient as good fortune is far behind us, back in Bristol, but I am way ahead of the story.
grab a box of tissues , folks. You will cry with amusement or sadness as the story of the past four day's unfolds.
We arrived in Beziers at one hell of a speed and sideways!!! but we landed, kind of. Really, it was more like a Special Forces 'Boo, your worst nightmare has arrived!
After clearing customs we collected our baggage and began the rebuild of the bikes. With Kathy's bike completed, I turned to the box containing my precious and trusted steed.
Frame...tick. Wheels...tick. Saddle.....er....look again in empty box!
Er, Kathy I have no saddle😯. Two phone calls to kind neighbours later, the offending item is discovered on the workbench 1,000 miles away. Damn!
Sophie arrived to house-sit at the moment of discovery and agreed to post the saddle to us using fastest possible means. £48 later and the 48 hour delivery moment has gone ...... and a further 36 hours has passed too.
But I am ahead of myself already. Kathy, who has taken this news of saddle-absence fabulously calmly is fine and ready to find the campsite planned for the night's stop.
I faffed around with a variety of ideas to form a saddle of a kind ending up sitting astride the rolled up tent and balancing precariously shifting the form below me to avoid the tent falling and myself receiving a desperate injury.
7 miles later having cycled as if I am riding a child's toy, knees up by my ears, we arrived at the campsite.....Where I dropped my phone that no longer allows me to get on the web or onto local wifi😠
What else can go wrong? Surely we will be fine now. The SF landing, the saddle, the phone......and STILL Kathy is bouyant. Amazing lady!
If only I had the ability to remain even-keeled as such events unfold.....if only. Maybe one day.
As we sit in the warmth of South France within a stone's throw of Canal Du Midi, we discover, now we have found free Wi-Fi at the local rail station, for this Kindle, that the saddle was forwarded from Birmingham for international export this morning....48 hour delivery my arse, as Mr Royale of TV fame may have said😊
sorry for the huge delay in typing on this page - we got locked out by Google and had to await the return to UK before being able to unlock the blog
so here goes.
Day 2 as we day 1 was the disaster off arrival at Beziers airport and the saddle fiasco.
Off we went following Canal Du midi on cycle route 8 towards Agre. as soon as we had entered the pretty riverside town, the cycle path led on to the shared pedestrian/cycle path on the river embankment. Be warned, on the embankment are a set of bollards that stand at wheel height and the same width. Once they would have been used to tie up boats/ships …..now they are a MASSIVE path divider....
I was leading, as per normal, punching a hole in the air for my beloved Slipstream Queen . We weaved passed the first two bollards and as we passed the third I heard a crunching sound and a little scream followed by a splash.
Yep, Kathy had clipped a bollard and gone in the water...leaving the bike on the path, thankfully. 3 other cyclists stopped as did a passing car to take a peak at the sudden disappearance of the 2nd-of-2 cyclists.
Kathy clambered back on to dry land and after grabbing a consolation drink of water, inspected herself for breakages, bruises and/or cuts.
With only grazes and bruising to show for her incident we soon pressed on but chose to do so on the adjacent side road to allow Kathy an easier time for the next few minutes - and avoid a potential drowning incident.
We pressed on and were soon eating up the miles heading for the night's campsite at Cave Croix St Julie. The temperature was rising fast as we tackled the rolling hills - some cheeky up slopes.....but every up has a down, eh - the temperature eventually rose to 29c - but with a brisk headwind to assist with the cooling we arrived in good condition. a large supermarket 1.5 k away was our shop for the night and soon after found Cave Croix.
The owners are fine folk and asked for 10 euros for the night with showering facilities adjacent to their bar area. There was no wifi but for 10 euros who can complain. We ate late and retired soon after.
Day 3 .
We set off early to enjoy the coolness of the air and were soon racing through quiet lanes and open fields - a truly wonderful experience. Within 90 minutes we were half way for the day when once again the mid morning breeze turned to cool our faces and the cycling became a decent workout and less 'fun'. Always trying to find the positive, Kathy remarked.....'this is good training for Ventoux'. and how right she was. We were heading for Lunel and Camp Bon Port where we had to pay 19 euros for camping, wifi and electric - so our gas is saved for another time. winner! After eating my Kindle stopped working correctly and after a foolish decision to reboot I found I had lost access to all social media apps - worse still had lost MAPS.ME - which somehow I managed to get back on the previously dropped - and intermittently-working phone.
the blog will have to wait - so I made notes on the phone and promised myself to update the whole thing on our return.....
Day 4. we awoke to a chilly breeze blowing and quickly realised that we were going to have a tough cool day. A check on Meteo showed we could expect a wind of up to 40 mph!!! it's going to be a tough one.
off we set along quiet lanes with grape vines growing either side - a pleasure indeed. The forecasted breeze was growing to a wind and by the time we reached half way, it was blowing us about on the road. It was great training but brutal and stayed with us all of the way to Montfrin!.
At the halfway point, near Redissan, and a supermarket a Captain Mainwaring type stopped to admire the loaded bikes and engaged me in conversation. It became apparent that he was himself a former cycle tourist and if we wished we could eat with his wife this evening - annoyingly the map showed we would have to track back on the route we had just battled and declined. It was heart warming to be given such a kind offer by a complete stranger.
Kathy soon appeared with the next 3 meals worth of shopping and I related to her the kind offer and explained that it would mean going backwards 7 miles or so - she agreed that it was best to decline and again we thanked the gentleman and were soon out of the village and back in to the fields.
As we followed a bend in the road we caught our first site of Ventoux (very encouraging....just when we needed it) - rising out of the flat fields high in to the sky - in the far off distance.....still 40 miles away.
the next village we went through, the pharmacie was indicating the current temperature was now 29.5 …….its getting warmer!
Camping Belrive was our destination for the day and the near-empty campsite, on the edge of a village and a small river flowing along the campsite border, made us glad we had found such a nice place. 2 nights please.Tomorrow we plan to visit Pont Du Gard, 10 Km away.....a small town and its famous bridge.....but a curry and beer is needed followed by a decent nights kip. My legs were tired after battling the wind for 2 days.
That night I was woken by terrible cramp - I guess dehydrated after the unusual-to-us heat and tough couple of days. it was very painful and have no wish to repeat the experience.....more rehydration as we cycle and post-ride stretching.
'Here, have some of this' said Nurse Kathy. It was a salt and sugar tablet that dissolves in water. I was soon back in the land of nod and dreaming of racing up Ventoux as part of the peleton in the TdF.
Fat chance!
Montfrin/Pont Du Gard
We woke very late , for us, at 8.30 and after breakfast we checked the map for the route out of town to voie verte (trailway -former rail route) for PdG.
But first the shop.....it's a Holy Day Ascension Day...and shops close at noon. To be fair, in France, one is fortunate if the shop is open on a Holy Day, Sunday or Monday. (We carry emerency standby rations just in case)
Anyway back to Ascension Day shopping...He rose, He rose, He rose up from the dead, was hummed as we scoured the shelves (along with thoughts of Monty Python 😀...)
Shopping achieved and dumped at the tent, we headed for the trailway.
Well, no shock the wind was blowing in our faces for the ten miles.....and.....to add to our misery it was an uphill slope!
Always finding good, where no one else can, Kathy pointed out to me as I puffed out another grunt of tiredness that 'the return leg will be easier'. What a lady....always look on the bright side of life Dada Dada dadaaaaa. 😀
I never liked Monty Python really, so why they visited me today, I can only guess.
Pont Du Gard was a disappointment to Kathy seeing the modern bridge (steel and low arches) slightly downstream from the damaged (missing the middle bit over the water ) and only riverbank uprights to be seen.
'Is that it? Looking at me with the face and voice of someone left disappointed? Have we just cycled in to that wind for that.....a missing bridge?
I have to admit that I was unaware of the missing-bit bridge and laughed saying 'no, the PdG bridge is a little further. Through an avenue of large trees, passing a visitors carpark area (10 euros ) to round the corner and behold.....'wow', I hear behind me. 2000 years old and still standing! More than can be said for the latter-day missing-bit bridge that nearly caused me to suffer verbal and/or physical abuse!
I think most folk will admit that the aqueduct / bridge is rather spectacular. As we sat to enjoy our lunch, watching many folk kayaking or swimming and walking or cycling the riverbank path, we admired the results of the skillful builders. ...not forgetting those who probably would surely have lost their lives as they created a thing of magnificance and beauty.
Eating and admiring done, we headed down the windswept (on our backs😊) path to the campsite. Life is good. .....Ventoux, on our left in the distance , awaits.
To Avignon
After leaving camp, early 9.30, we realised how warm it was. 29 by 11.00 and barely a breath of wind to cool us.
Must grumble though, else the 40 mph stuff (Mistral ) could return. 😊
First sign post showed Avignon at 17 Km. Really???
On we went and after 30 minutes another sign for the city.....16Km.
30 minutes more the sign showed city is 14 Km. Funny..... if it wasn't so hot.
We cycled most of the route following the cycle path on edge of Le Rhone. Very flat but also peaceful. We stopped to chat , at her request, with a lady cycling alone in the opposite direction. She had loaded panniers on board and looked very content. She was heading for Vias, the town where we stopped when we first arrived on Canal Du Midi, her intention -to visit her mother.
Soon we bid her farewell and continued on British - style country lanes.....potholes and lumps everywhere......very un-French.
Another 10km saw us crossing Le Rhone and the hunt for the campsite. Camping LA Bagotelle. Nice enough.....lots of shade. 22 euros.
It is very hot and not a breath of wind.
Late this afternoon we will venture in to the city to get a taste of the place and grab some food in the supermarket.
The food for the ride tomorrow needs to be able to withstand the heat....pasta won't do it.
The city is beautiful. The traffic horrendous and the roads outsude the impressive city walls are clogged with cars at traffic lights which seem to be permanently red.
The 1.5k ride to the shop convinced us to change the plan of leaving -leave early!
The road surface is shocking.....no TdF will visit those roads, not in that condition. We weaved through the slow traffic, raised ironworks and potholes.
It was very useful exercise as we learned the important piece of the next day's route....the escape 😊
To Bedouin
We left very early , at 6 as we wished to escape the city before rush hour and allow ourselves the chance to move around the road surface obstacles.
Fabulous idea. It was cool and traffic free. We encountered many other cyclists -presumably local - who had the same idea.....Cycle to the outskirts in the cool while the roads are traffic-free.
We rolled out of town on the quiet main road and picked up the preferred quiet lanes soon after....all the while Ventoux in the distance providing an ever-growing confirmation that our direction was correct.
The wind, too, was growing.....its all good training.... and its direction, as with the sun's position, assisted us in our choices when we needed to check which way to go
It wasnt too long before we were out in the open of the countryside again and hopping from village to village which is truly wonderful. At about half way we entered Aubigoin and noticed a pretty village square complete with a small market, village fountain and a cafe with a shaded area.
Deux Coca-Cola s'il vous plais, monsieur.
We sat and chilled in the warm sun enjoying the coolness of the refreshing and sugar-filled reviving drinks as local folk acknowledged out very loaded bikes with a nod or smile and two 'Bon Courage'.
You'd be unlikely to get that back in Bournemouth! More likely to get 'ello mate....do you have any cash for some drugs'....or, in a drugged-haze, attempt to steal your wheels while you watched.
No such fears here in the vast wilds of south France. Truly a joy and a feeling of safety, and feeling of welcome wrapped around us both.
The ice melted in our glasses and we went in search for the person to pay for our drinks and headed back into the breeze and increasing heat of the day to begin the very long but gentle inclines and soon found the first road sign to Bedouin.
We caught our first glimpse of the village directly beneath Ventoux that towers over everything else in the area. The pretty old village which has a happy and calm feel is filled with cyclists and walkers. While sat at the roundabout whatching the world go by, in one direction around 15 cyclists went by while in the other around 20.....a normal day in this cycling mecca. I have to say as a 'chunky' 59 year old with my sturdy road bike with 2 inch mountain bike tyres, I felt a little out of place surrounded by tall and slim athletes with their carbon-fibre bikes and skinny 28 mm tyres.
There was no feeling of 'why are you two here'. We were just two more enthusiasts entitiled to soak up the buzz of the place. After all, we are adding to the buzz, giving to others as they are unconsciously giving to us.
We found the campsite - La Garrenne. From the road the drive way rises steeply into the woods......ofcourse there is a slope, we had just cycled 40-odd miles in to a hot breeze, why not add a bloody slope at the end. Arriving at reception puffing as only mid-aged folk can, we paused to look out of the terrace, over the (beautifully -positioned) swim pool and back over the route that we had followed which was very satisfying.
Into reception - and what a welcome....Bon jour monsieur, bon jour madame …. all said with a welcoming smile.
In my best, but stumbling, school-boy French I asked if the lady had a space for a few nights for us and our tent, with electricity if possible. Once again, my attempts to massacre the beautiful language was not met with a smirk or correction but understood, accepted not corrected and in return in slowish (to allow me/us to understand) speech 'yes, we have a special place for cyclists, lots of shade and softer ground) and, if you need, we have extra long cable, free, if you need one. The pool is free for you to use (but please shower first - big smile) and wifi is open and free too. The bar is open most of the day as is the restaurant. (The prices are incredibly cheap for a world-known location).
What a generous bunch of people! what a welcome!
the price for camping was insanely cheap - 15 euros for each night and the food - 8 euros for a pizza and a beer 2.50 euros. Incredible. I expected London prices but instead these kind folk are not ripping every penny they can out of their visitors which all combines to the warmth and happiness of the place.
We will return
We soaked up the positivity of the site and the village. One Belgique family who were glamping opposite us in a small chalet gave Kathy a huge smile and many thumbs up as we cycled up to our allocated space for the next few days - more love from fellow cyclists. Fabulous
Later, after a swim pool and while sitting on the terrace polishing off a pizza - washed down with a bottle of beer and multiple glasses of beer, we watched the sun setting over the foothills of Ventoux and our excitement began to grow. After all, the day after tomorrow is my 60th birthday and we have a mission to complete. Climb the mountain!
The following day we returned to the village in search of 'normal' pedals as mine were a little loose and the bearings were screeching at every turn.....not a cool sound, especially in THIS place - the holy of holys for amateur cyclists and professionals alike.
We ahd no joy - just confused looks …. you want NORMAL pedals? not clip-ons? not carbon-fibre clip-ons?
Non, monsieur, we have not sold these things for many years. You should try Decathlon in Avignon
Two mid-aged tubby folk with old-fashioned bikes wobbling around in lycra were just made to feel a little out of place - but we laughed about it.....and I have to admit, I should/could have checked this before we left but I was to busy hiding the saddle :-)
June 2nd arrived and we awoke to the alarm at 5.30 - very early to beat the heat.
We set off at 6.15 …..but were not the first to leave. Another carbon-fibre lovey beat us to that and he passed us on his way back down when we reaching half way up. Good skills, sir, good skills.
The excitement, the anticipation of attempting todays ride was hard to control and I set off at a deliberate easy pace - both wearing our cycling wind-sheeter jackets to fend off the cool of the morning.
With 30 minutes the gentle incline had warmed us and as we stopped several other cyclists eased pass us......we were not alone at such an insane time of the day - clearly.
Stop and hydrate - little and often - was today's rule - and we go up together - was my rule.
At the 1 hour point about 50 riders had passed us, many acknowledging us, and we them, some crawling passed us, others moving substantially quicker but we followed the snaking road ever upwards, up through the wooded road to the summit.
The first female passed us at the 90 minute point which was disappointing for me as I secretly hoped that we would get Kathy to the top as first lady of the day - it was not to be. I soon forgot about 2nd and 3rd place too as more folk eased passed us as our pace dropped to walking pace - or slower - as the heat, distance and incline ate away at energy.
We knew of the café (Chalet Reynard) from watching TdF and getting there was , for me, half way and at every corner I hoped to see the road ahead briefly level off and the knowledge that job was half done.....up and up and finally out in to the lunar-landscape often discussed in race commentaries - out through the tree line. Dust and rocks and a hot beating sun awaits!
We slogged on as 4th lady then 5th place disappeared up the road. Finally the Chalet appeared and we dismounted with relief. A younger (aren't they all) chap stood out of the way from the café seating approached us, he dressed in well-fitting lycra hugging his lythe athletic frame to say - 'well done you guys, there won't be many up here today with massive tyres and pannier racks - chapeau to you'.
Merci, monsieur.....we chatted a while longer and discovered he was on a 140 mile ride to aid recovery from a knee op he had endured 5 weeks earlier. 140 miles at this height? Wow! Oh to be so young and capable once more. we shooed us to the shade and café seating to buy ourselves a slice of pizza and a drink of Coke.
As he mounted and cycled off with a wave and salute to us - I noticed that others were taking pictures of him and/or filming him - but I have no idea why - maybe he is a famous athelete/cyclists......which warmed us (as if we needed warming) that the effort by these two 'oldies' had been picked up by a kindly chap whose chose to comment on us being on the hill.
refreshments consumed we headed off back on up the slope, interested in finishing - no longer concerned with being 1st, 3rd, 5th or 50th lady for that matter - it really doesn't matter. Each travels at their own speed. Each pushes hard, each arrives and each cyclist succeeds!
The first slopes after The Chalet sucked the recovered-energy from our legs and soon we were back to plodding, sweating and barely-controlling heart-rates. I had promised my doctor that I would keep mine to less than 135......for 3 or 4 hours which was answered with a jovial roll of the eyes..... and we plodded on. The first of several road-side photographers was passed - slipping a card in to the cycle-top rear pocket and a tap on the back with a call of 'chapeau' to every photographed cyclist.
The road snakes upwards and the summit became ever clearer....but no neared it seemed. I stopped more regularly to ensure that Kathy wasn't cycling alone and to ensure the mental tow-rope was still intact - not that it was really needed - but Kathy would have succeeded in her quiet determined way with or without me, That's a certainty. Gritty!
Soon the lighthouse-looking building at the top showed itself to be square and we passed 2 more photographers. Upwards, ever upwards....hotter, ever hotter. A slight crosswind began to blow with 1 mile to go and I noticed a photographer doing his stuff further ahead. I stopped. I hoped that this photographer could capture a snap of both Kathy and myself together....a fitting momento of this special day. Once again we had a drink and pushed on, side by side - SNAP - card in pocket to join 3 others - I was hopeful of a good picture but delighted that someone captured something of the two of us on the hill together.
The 'lighthouse' approached and square windows became clear as the distance between rider and summit slowly closed.
8/7/6 corners to go and the final resting place of Tom Simpson is passed - a solo rider descending stopped and is clearly struggling with a selfie - Can I help you, mate - Click - another cyclist and his carbon-fibre bike with a special (once in a lifetime?) momento
The final 3 corners. A mid aged lady with an electric bike is sitting on the crash barrier probably waiting for her un-assisted hill-climbing partner. 2 corners a long sweeping climbing right - 20-odd mustangs, engines throbbing, soft-tops lowered passing downwards.
stop for a drink. Kathy catches up again.....and passes me.
200 metres to go and one finally corner. the corner is a snapback and SHARP followed by a cheeky climb - just to remind you this is a mountain-top - not a hill-top - finish.
We climbed/struggled/puffed and grunted the last 200 and finally after 3 hours we were on the flat....amongst other ascenders. Lots of back-slapping, photo-taking, laughing with relief. we simply kissed briefly and hugged, sweatily. What a lady! Chapeau, Madame, Chapeau!
The tacky shop next to the massive square and windowed-'lighthouse' offers refreshements and a few momentos…..5 euros for a small medal - Ventoux 2019. Happy bloody birthday and I cried with fatigue? relief? because I was ….. no, we were now mountain climber/s?
10 minutes and time to go back down. 'Lets hope its quicker and easier than coming up' laughed Kathy and off we went. Wind sheeters donned we leave the happy site.
Corner one - stop for a photograph. corner 6 stop - photograph and allow the brakes to cool.
and on downwards...….a nod to a still climbing cyclists - a call of 'BRAVO' to a child of 8/9/10? followed by a big grab of brakes - stay alert Tony - do not get distracted.
A raise of a superman fist to a RUNNER!!!! and ever on downwards the road straightening and speed increasing.
Confidence growing on sweeping curves and then a medical assistance team checking over a fellow cyclist ….the descent continues. Fast no cars or motorbikes passing - a clear run release the brakes - feel the cooling breeze through the jacket.
Warning corner signs brakes - screeching ahead ….we pass a slowing cyclists feet on floor - I know that scary feeling - brakepad failure in this case not oil. I will be fine, thankyou for stopping.....and we are off again speed gathering fast, warning signs - another snapback, big grab of the brakes and only just make the corner - a smile of fear and soon we are back in the hamlet at the feet of the mountain and then on downwards towards Bedouin passing a red faced, tubby an already-struggling cyclist - ITS HOT!
Should have got up early my friend, I think to myself.....good luck. I hope he made it.
Back to the campsite feeling good . The Belgique family nodded and asked have you been up - OUI! with a smile.....Bravo.
The family of cyclists in this mecca of the cycling world is as much about sharing and giving as it is about personal achieving. Oh to capture that feeling and bottling it. The generosity and positivity in the area surrounding Bedouin/Ventoux could solve many of the world's difficulties
Maybe the folk who own and run the campsite La Garonnes are caught up with the same goodness; equally generous, positive and helpful, more so than a few other site manager we have encountered elsewhere. Long may if last.
Going Home day 1
We reluctantly left Bedoin/Mont Ventoux waking at 5.15 and leaving at 7 to enjoy the cool morning air and the slight downhill run into Modene. on the way there was a shift of and with that shift the plan changed, and we turned north.
We found a voie velo (cycle path) and headed for Jonquierres. A kind French cyclist assisted us in a mixture of languages - Francais and Anglais which we call Franglaise. We speak this rare language quite well and we were soon armed with brilliant directions for the best route towards the Rhone and a great campsite in Suze La Rousse. SLR is a nice village which has a lovely chateau.... as does nearly every village, town and city
The route led us through hundreds of fields filled with vines separated with an occassionsl field of lavender.
The following wind nudged us along at a comfortable 12 mph.....a slight difference to the descent off Ventoux - a memorable and exciting average of 39 MPH!
Back to SLR..the campsite is being upgraded for glamping and facilities are the best we have encountered yet with the price remaining at a generous 16 euros for cycle camping for which one has free access to their electricity, wifi....and the small pool. 😊
The socket for the elctrics was unusual not the international standard and we asked the Gardien/ reception lady for advice. Ah no problem.... is anything a problem for these fabulous people?.... a quick phone call to an electrician on site and Pascal appeared. The situation was explained and solution provided by Pascal.
This massive and rugged man stands about 6 feet 4 inches and no doubt weighs more than me. his huge fingers on the ends of his shovel-like hands played daintily with a screw driver and tiny connectors and within 5 minutes our International connector was a French connector.
in Pascal's best Franglaise he promised to return at 7 in the morning to undo his fine electrical artwork before we departed northward.
Tomorrow we head for Eurovelo 17 (cycle route) along the Rhone and hopefully for more southerly winds after a later start ☺.
Going Home day 2
Pascal arrived, as promised, to make good our lecky wire. Then gifted us the cable he created to make sure we would be ok for the remainder of our trip.
And as he finished off I said 'monsieur. Vous etres tres jolie.'
The rugged Pascal stood upright and looked at me for 2 or 3 seconds and then smiled. Looking amusingly at me through his thick lenses he shook his head and wagged a finger.... 'Non monsieur' he said. You 'ave just called me bootiful' ! AND LAUGHED. ' I sink you mean gentile.....kind'.
Pascal looks not unlike the Welsh rugby captain Alan Wyn Jones AFTER a game ( when beautiful is not the adjective that would immediately spring to mind!😊.
We both laughed and shook hands ( no hugs for the 'beautiful' Pascal)
Goodbye kind folk of Suze la Rousse. And off we go after a late cooked breakfast heading for the Rhone where we hope to find Eurovelo 17 and a following breeze....we half-hoped for a slight headwind as the forecast was 31 c by midday 😕
Another downhill for 10 miles and flatened off for 5 more until DOZENE. With a gentle warm breeze from the south
We parked our bikes against s wall opposite and Kathy went of to do food shopping.
Kathy came back across the road 15 seconds later.
Its shut......are you sure....yes the door won't open....
I looked. Lights are on. Walked over the road.
The shop door WAS closed....POUSSEZ it says by the handle. The lights were on inside
I nudged the door.....ding!😊
I know she is no fan of shopping, but ....😁
We left Dozene heading for Chateauneuf du Rhone. A cheeky 1500 metre long climb up through the trees was later declared to be nearly as high as Ventoux with the summit being 1912 metres high and 24 Km to get up that high!
When I stopped laughing I was told to make the brews!😊
The sweeping descent into Chateauneuf was a pleasure and we soon found our way to Eurovelo 17 and the Rhone .The temperature had rusen to 30c ( care of pharmacy sign) and the breeze had increased which seems to pick up each afternoon. Today's breeze is currently blowing at about 25/30 km an hour.....and WARM
We cycled on in the growing heat stopping only to douse ourselves in water.
At Rochemaure the EV17 turned left and took us over a long suspension footbridge. The original bridge had collapsed under the strain of a heavily laden lorry....there were no casualties resulting, just a broken bridge. In the increased afternoon wind one was able to feel the effects of the buffetting and we were both glad to reach terra firma.
As we passed the nuclear power plant we saw the first sign for the destination town....Cruase
Llons and the camping is a good price (16.40) with a nice pool. The v strong wind ,probably gusting 40 mph is spoiling the evening but only slightly.
Other cycling campers (French) - as a welcome to the region have given us a glass of white wine and miniature sausages as an entree for our evening meal. Rice and Salmon 😊. Yummy
Tomorrow, wind and heat permitting we follow Eurovelo 17 to Valence 😊, looking for Camping Soleil Fruite
Going Home day 3
Last night it rained for 4 hours but nothing is too wet when we awake. The morning wind started very early and we were soon awake and gone on our way.
We enjoyed seeing a lot of wildlife. Swans with cignets, buzzards, dragon flies, snakes (squashed) , red squirrels and many cyclists......though I remain unsure whether or not cyclists belong in the wildlife category. 😊
We cycled Eurovelo 17 in to the northerly breeze following the Rhone with truly massive barges. One of the barges was so large there was a car on the rear end! 'That (barge) would make a nice house boat' said Kathy.
'I'm sure it would 100 metres long 15/20 metres wide.....like a block of flats sailing up the river.....I dont think it would even get into through the bridges of London let alone the Kennet and Avon'!
Onwards we pressed into the cold wind reaching Poizin. The trail weaved and twisted endlessly through tiny alleys and narrow streets.
It is one way to ensure cyclists see the towns and villages where they can stop to acquire both necessary aswell as unnecessary ofcourse.
Soon after Poizin we missed a left turn and instead followed a different Eurovelo sign. 3 miles later we realised and after consulting Maps.Me on the phone (free to download) we soldiered on northwards but, annoyingly, moving away from the Rhone.
Despite the diversion we soon found ourselves back on EV17 heading for Valence (a worn out town ) in need of a rebuild and smarten-up much like myself 😊). With shopping collected we tackled the long hill out of town to find Le Soleil Fruites camping.
Its like mini Nederlands....with only 1 Italian, 1Belgian, 1French vehicle and us, we are feeling rather outnumbered by NL caravanners. Have NL folk ALL taken a holiday?
Its slightly more expensive than previous sites but very nice facilities, restaurant , bar and 3 delightful pools which were soon put to good use -cryotherapy anyone?..... where we cooled our over- heated and tired bodies before a half hour on a sun lounger .....where I fell asleep and Kathy had to wake me as my snoring 😁 was disturbing on sun-lounge folk.
The following day was a much needed rest day before we head for La Barrolles , 50k south of Lyon.
On Saturday in France, small shops close early and all day Sunday AND most again all day on Monday which makes being a cycle trip - shopping and eating - rather awkward.
So diversions and plans have to be made to find the larger shops to meet our needs. On Saturday as we cross Le Doux, there is a large Intermarche 400 metres away.
On Sunday Intermarche in Grigny will hopefully serve us well.
Monday we will head onwards towards Camping Les Portes du Beaujoulais...shopping at Neuville sur Saone.....happy now 😊…..short term camping needs sorted, I relaxed.
We spent more time in the pool and sat in the shade reading, eating and drinking our water and soft drinks in copious quantities.
Going Home Day 4
We woke up at 6.....blue skies and noticed a very slight breeze but the air was chilly. As usual I was on cooking duties for breakfast and evening meal but on this occasion I had forgotten to to plug in electric ring!😕 It made us both laugh, even at 7 am. A good day beckons and we set off in good spirits
Eurovelo twisted a bit back and fore today
(seemingly the curse of the route....for cyclists).....sometimes appearing to disappear completely leaving the cyclist to guess as we headed nearer to Lyon but despite the best the the EV people could do to disrupt our plan we finally arrived at La Lone campsite. The campsite is cheap.... the pool is out of bounds, the grass uncut but the Gardien / Reception folk are good people.
We arrived too late for morning shift for reception and had to sit around for an hour in the shade and while doing so became engaged in conversation with another lone-cyclist...a German called Patrick who would normally wild camp but needed a washing machine 'and a shower would be welcome too' he said.
Patrick is an easy-to-talk-to guy and we were soon swapping stories about respective travels, lives, work and families. 2 hours later the receptionist reopened and after paying we went off to set up on our pitch.
As we were putting up the tent we were grateful that we carried a decent hammer and old screwdriver to help create holes for tent pegs....the ground is rock hard!
The local shop is 100 metres away which is helpful....so off we pedalled for resupplies and as we approached the shop a chap opened a car door on me. It was close but no one was hurt - safe to say that both driver and I were a little shook up and it could have been much worse had the rider not been quick to change direction and nothing else was on the road. Use your mirrors!
Returning to the tent I noticed the bike was not riding correctly.....a broken spoke being the cause. With the assistance of the camp reception I emailed a mobile repair for tomorrow and awaited a reply. while sitting waiting Patrick appeared. 'Reception tells me you have a broken wheel.....can I help? I have spares ….so possibly I can assist.
Patrick helped me fix the bike with a spare spoke he was carrying. We had a brew to celebrate and we talked until gone dark. A slightly troubled guy..but a good guy. The rain came again at 111pm and we retired to our respective tents.
It rained all night with only a few drops getting inside and at 7 is was lashing down and very windy and quite cold. Many of the other cycle tourists packed up and headed off but we decided to sit tight and have another rest day if necessary and retired to a communal covered area where a few other cyclists were cooking breakfasts and/or sitting and hoping for something better.
Kathy dug out our pack of cards and we played a few rounds of Pontoon/21s/ Blackjack which Patrick found very confusing much to everyone's amusement.....and once we added to burden to playing for dummy points the game fell apart. More laughter - and the sun broke through and rain eased.
Lets go ….we packed in a hurry and dressed in rain gear we headed out after a photo or two with Patrick he waved us off into the murky mid-morning showery rain.
Going Home Day 5, 6 and 7
Sunday, and it would be a Sunday, with a following Bank Holiday Monday, wouldn't it!
The ride was forgettable- drizzle soaked us but the air was warm and there was nearly no breeze for the first half of the ride. As we went I started to hear a horrible crunching sound, then cracking and I felt the results coming up the frame through my seat and handle bars. Was the bike about to break/snap/die on us.
We did what you have to do, pressed on.
As we neared our campsite area, just southwest of Lyon the road started to climb and kept climbing for about 10 miles
Finally a downhill stretch and there we spotted a large cycle shop 2 miles from the campsite that would reopen on Tuesday 9.00 - 2 days off then unless we have good fortune with fault finding.
On upwards we go climbing the wet and windy gentle slope to a quiet roundabout to find some respite with a down slope leading to the campsite of our choice Les Barolles ......the only one within 25 miles.
The Gardien was friendly enough and rather than chopping the electrical cable to use 'beautiful' Pascal's cable the Gardien provided us with an adaptor. As we put up the tent, the rain stopped and all of our wet clothes were given a good wash and the luxury of a drying machine was enjoyed. As the clothes were collected the wind died and life was good.
While collecting the clothes I met a chap, English speaking and British educated Stephen of Argentina. As Kathy decided to have an early night, I stayed to chat with the interesting guy, once again sharing stories of cycling travels.....and like many solo male cyclists we seemed to me to burdened with personal issues.
At midnight, the wine ran out and we said goodnight. The rain returned and once again the leaks were tiny and we considered that to be a win.
The morning came and the rain eased somewhat. Kathy decided to cook and I was sent off to find out what was wrong with my bike to allow us to plan the next few days.
I swapped pedals with Kathy's bike and no improvement.
I swapped the rear wheel - bingo.
I stripped my rear wheel - thankfully we had the tool to remove the gearing 'cassette' and then the bearings were able to be exposed. £3.00 worth of bearings needed replacing.....but nothing is open for 2 days.
'Lets go find a shop in the village buy some wine and sit out the storm and waiting period' I suggested.
We passed the cycle shop in 15 minutes - worthy of note for Tuesday - and eventually found a small supermarket and bout 6 meals worth of food
After lunch we had a message then phone call from Sophie.....I am locked in the conservatory!😂. Even now, I don't understand how one is able to lock oneself into a conservatory - one with 2 doors!
Our neighbours Tina and Simon offered help and advice but eventually Sophie resorted to calling a DIY-expert friend who rescued her having travelled 20 miles.
And the door latch is now refitted and all is well.
Day 7
On Tuesday we walked the 15 mins to the bike shop. 1st served by the very kind folk and 100 euros later, the bike is rolling v quietly again (nouveau bear) and we have 5 spare spokes (rayon) and spoke tool, each have new pedals ( much needed).....cant change mine as I cant fit stirrups without a drill so I treated myself to new grips for handle bars.....v much needed.
On returning to camp we collapsed the tent, packed and set off in the cool of mid morning climbing through outer Lyon before descending with the morning traffic to the Rhone, once again. We turned north (left) and followed the riverbank cycle path. So content were we, that I missed the footbridge to cross back over the river.
1K later I realised my mistake and we turned back after crossing the first bridge.
The downstream (west bank) path is dreadful and soon I heard another squeal from Kathy and she was down but this time only slightly dirty and a little bruised....no drenching this time!
Kathy was soon back up and we binned the path and found a road to follow. Within 10 minutes we found the 1K bike tunnel through the hillside taking us out of Lyon and on to the banks of The Soane.
Goodbye Rhone and Eurovelo 17 and thank you for keeping us safe. Onwards to the Soane.
The west bank road running alongside the Soane is in need of a little maintenance but the light traffic encouraged us to follow it until it became busier....the traffic loading remained light so, naturally, we followed it for 20 miles at good speed, for us, 14 mph 😊 before finding the road for Traveaux.
After shopping we headed a further 6 miles to Missime sur Rhone and the camping municipal. Tranquil...Leafy...warm and a friendly part-time campsite manageress from the tiny village.
As we sat in the peace of this barely used campsite, snug and enjoying the warmth of a tent and the relaxation of a glass of wine the rain started again; quiet pitter-patter of rain drops mixed with the birds tweeting to each other in the nearby trees and shrubs. Life is good. 😊
The site manager is very nice. She booking us in, and on discovery that we were D'Angleterre….she appeared overjoyed.
'Ah! I LOVE Lon -don'.....we speak in Eng-leesh please.....
So we we spoke in English for a bit until the word could not be found and she slipped into French -parce que c'est plus simplement'.
And, yes, you guessed it....she speaks at 100 miles an hour about the parrots she fed in one of the parks.....and other stuff that we couldn't understand.
We nodded, smiled and 'oui'd ' in the right places ....before Brexit was mentioned.
'Catastrophe pour tous, madame' was the agreed response we had previously agreed would be our reply if Brexit were mention by anyone. She grimaced and nodded. Oui....catastrophe.
'You want a leetle yellow vest revolution' she said and laughed.
Little does she know that the democratic vote of Leave was exactly that... a minor revolution against the London elite.
Viva La Revolution!
The drizzle continued until 9.30 so we climbed into the pod for sleep. It then started to rain and didnt stop until 6.30. Amazingly when we got up at 7.30 the clouds were breaking and a hint of sun was warming the tent, and maybe more importantly, drying the tent so when we arrive in Macon, today, unpacking will be a dry event. 😊
While unpacking I noticed a small hole in the tent and Kathy suggested using a self-adhesive tube patch to solve the problem - such a clever lady. 2 minutes later we have a spotty, and dry, tent.
Day 8
After breakfast I was cleaning the bikes and making necessary adjustments, I could hear Kathy speaking to someone in Kathy's best French. Oui....nous allons Loire et Cherbourg.
When Kathy returned to the tent she told me an old lady stopped her outside her caravan to offer Kathy some strawberries from her tiny patch surrounding her holiday 'home'.
'Look what we have'.....showing me the handful of strawberries. 'I just nicked them from the old ladies breakfast table'😀
We left in the cool of the morning, wearing our windsheeter jackets. One small incline led to a very long gentle downward slope. As we turned right we found the wind blowing us along which stayed with us all of the way to camping municipal just outside Creche Sur Soane.
After dropping off the bags and erecting the tent we headed into town to find an enormous shopping area. The supermarket is so large it has two entrances. ...which caused a 'discussion'. That door, no this, NO, THAT ONE!.....How delightfully adult ......fatigue does weird things, eh.
I walked to the 1st entrance and Kathy reluctantly followed. I was right ......ofcourse......😁 and silently but smugly, I assisted in the buying of our necessaries for the next 3 meals, along with a few treats.
By the time we had bought our goodies, we were happy little campers again and were soon cycling the 1k back to our site.
After setting up camp, we sat out in the sun and our tops came off. My T shirt was draped over my knees. 'Aw, said Kathy, 'dont cover your knees......its your best bits.'
😊 None taken! Xxx
I was cooking evening meal on camping gas (meat) and electric hob (rice).
We estimate the £35 electric hob has already saved as £60 in gas can replacements.
Anyway, I had just finished adding the ingredients to the meat dish when i knocked it off its perch. The tent floor and myself copped most of the resulting splash. The dish itself mostly remained in the pan.....but scary.
I never have felt comfortable with the design of cooker on top of gas can. For the UK we have a gas can and cooker separated by a connecting pipe allowing the pan to be ground level.
Not all was lost and after we washed down all of the dirtied items , a fine meal was enjoyed. I began to consider how to stabilise the gas can to avoid a repeat of the spillage - settling on using 4 tent pegs, equally spread around the can to stop any sideways movement. Perfect....and we had no repeat of the tipping gas can thereafter.
The evening ended, as the sun was setting behind tomorrows testing hill, with a glass of beer and wine sat on the banks
Going Home Day 9
Another reminder came to us today that these trips are more about managing the situations that go wrong than enjoying the good. (Think saddle, crashes, dropped phone, shopping for sunday and mondays, weather, pedals and wheels)
Adapt and overcome was the motto of a Unit in which I once served.
It was true then and it remains true today as we go on our adventures.
My left knee was very sore - limping sore😕.
I have 'enjoyed' the same previously. The cause is typical to long distance /endurance cyclists - the quad muscles being excessively larger and stronger than the hamstring.... Bones/joints are then pulled out of shape...... Result -pain!
The solution for me is hip raises - doing the exercise for both legs else another imbalance occurs. When one is comfortable with the first exercise (ten days) put strain-taking leg on a chair and repeat 10 hip raises.
After doing my morning stretches and hip raises and while waiting for the kettle to boil I spied through the shrubbery that a light mist was raising from the river. We went together to enjoy the peaceful scene and were rewarded with a swan appearing while a breaching fish passed down stream. Wonderful.
As we returned to our tent, the hills of today were lit up by the sunrise. A gradual 40 mile hill climb is the order of the day, 26 miles of which will be an ex-railway with 2 vicious looking hills on the profile and followed by 10 miles of long rolling slopes Here's to grinding it out.
We left under a cloudless sky and near windless day.....we knew it would be hot and paracetamol were taken and extra water bottles were being carried.
With 2 minutes we began the first gentle incline. I was thinking that 'if this continues , we'll be fine.'
But I had viewed the ride profile and knew much worse was awaiting us.
Soon we found the trailway which ate up 20 miles of low gradient miles and then the Rhone Alps unleashed itself on us....one more whack before you get to La Loire!. We clicked into climbing gear as the steepness increased as to did the temperature. Fatigue crept up on us as we expected and we encouraged each other in our normal ways....'still winning, its only pain, this is the big one on the list and will soon be completed'.
At around 14.00 the temperature seemed to step up a notch and water-dowsing became the norm at drink stops.
We found the little-used former main road running up to Charolles. Rolling hills followed rolling hills which were broken up with a cheeky steep ones. The closer we got to Charolles the steeper and longer the climbs. The colourful language I could hear behind me told me VERY clearly that arrival at our destination could not occur quick enough......and then the hill turned right. 25 minutes later we came to the top of Col De Vaux. Our reward was a long drop to a valley floor.....and yes, you've guessed it.... another harsh climb and more ' interesting' language.
At the top of the 2nd hill we came to a crossroads where we turned left and there before us was a perfect example of Roman-built road disappearing into the distance and together with some of its rolling slopes (and more industrial language was coming my way). Finally we were on the last down slope to town, shops and campsite.
Charolles looks very interesting and a recovery day will allow us to take a stroll and we planned to view its delights - tomorrow.
Going Home Day 10 - rest day
A much needed rest day after the efforts of yesterday which completed Stage 3 of the planning, and we celebrated the huge effort with a bottle of bubbly last night. We awoke late, for us, 8.30 and after the usual stretches, creaks and groans the kettle was fired up and all seemed to be fine with our world.
After lunch we wandered in to and around the pretty town of Charolles and were surprised to see so many derelict properties along with many others for sale.
As we returned to the campsite we walked through a small park and there on a river bank was a camel along with a donkey and alpaca all seemingly content to munch on the long damp grass and shrubs ...….unexpected, I think you would agree.
Going Home Day 11 - to La Loire.
Digoin is the target town for today. Last knighted it rained hard nearly all night. A small puddle in corner of tent causing a few item of clothing to be soaked. We had grown a leak from one of the sleeping-pod hangers - a built-in weakness??? We opted to use more of our inner tube adhesive patches on all spots of the tent where the hangers are stitched and glued in and soon after set about preparing to cook breakfast
While cooking breakfast I had a taste of the juice of the sausage, onion, mushroom and beans and said....'this needs a tin of tomatoes'
'We've got some if we need them'
'What?'
'Do you want a tin?
'Why didnt you give that it to me in the first place, as usual?'
'I thought you wouldn't want it!!!'
Lets start again, eh
Can I have ALL the ingredients for breakfast please.....
When I was in the RAF, we had folk in supply store who behaved in similar fashion.
'Hello mate can I have a new pair of size 11 shoes, please?'
Off he goes and returns empty handed
'Sorry mate, only got one pair left......someone may need that'.
'But I am THAT person'
Ignoring the needy me.....'I can order in a pair, mate....for next week'.
In cycling terms....today was a dull ride. Downhill slopes all the way except for two climbs then 20 miles to pick up Eurovelo 6 running alonside a canal where we spied a few heron and buzzard-type birds otherwise it was dull.
The weather had improved, the rain had stopped and the temperature was warm/comfortable but and no headwind so there was no complaining
We quickly arrived at the super little campsite on La Loire....piched tent and ate lunch just before it rained. We were hopeful that the tube patches would do their thing and jumped in to the pod for a kip.
On most camping municipal sites there is a electric available on tent pitches., but not here in Digoin. Any hot water for cooking/eating would have to come from the gas cooker....together with 4 tent pegs, ofcourse. Hot Drinks ... water by gas. Zzzzzz 😊.
the tedium of boiling water in a pan rather than kettle led to a conversation about the buying of food resulting in 'moment' , maybe due to fatigue, maybe we had been chomping on too much energy food (snickers)....who knows.
This time it was 'I dont wany rice and mince EVERY day'
'We have it 1 day in 4' I protested. Its perfect for cycling, lots of protein and lots of carbs....asides from being full of moisture aswell as easy to cook....and very tasty (if one puts in the saved-from-this-mornings-breakfast-tomatoes - which I admit was not necessary to add -but things get tetchy from time to time)
Another couple have just arrived with a wet tent from the previous night's camping. Nice enough folk but she does the talking.....but not listening. She talked about the need for shopping and I was trying to tell her the shops location when she cut me off saying she knew where it was. Ok good luck lady. Its recently moved to the outskirts of town to a new outlet park. And our maps, and probably yours too, both paper and electrical are wrong. Bon appetite. It pays to listen😊
Going Home Day 12
We woke at 5.45......lots of lively small birds were doing there best to wake everyone else.
The noisy crows in the trees above the camping area joined in about 6.15 and carried on till we left.
The weather (meteo) informed us that all was looking good...warm (22c....and barely a breeze.
Today's route was going to be a 40 mile day but virtually downhill/flat following the canal running alongside the Loire - Canal Latoral
We left early to make sure we arrived at our chosen shop before 12 / closing time...Yes, Sunday comes around so quickly.
As we left camp we passed a small area that looked like a flood plain area. Maybe 5 or 6 Heron-type birds wading around taking keen interest in something in the long grass/water.
On the way we saw several hunting birds hovering above a field of grass being cut by tractor.....easy pickings?
The wind was a headwind yet again, but despite the lack of hills and slopes we averaged a satisfying 13.5 mph and a top speed of 19 mph.
The route was lacking in distractions and when a lorry went passed we watched it disappear over the distant horizon had a rather negative effect......long flat roads passing fields of corn/grass. 😴zzzzzz.
Finally we approached our destination and shop. Kathy went to acquire the necessaries and I remained outside in the late morning hot sun to care for the bikes and gear.
As I went through my stretches a French chap approached and a discussion about Tai Chi.....apologies if spelling is not correct.... and other oriental processes for healing and assisting the body to be well.
Somehow the dialogue with him promoting the benefits ended up with him talking highly of the benefits of colonic irrigation!
While I have no doubt there are benefits from flooding ones inners, purely for cleansing purposes, I was wishing for the return of Kathy before the conversation, between strangers, took a second uncomfortable diversion.
Kathy rescued me soon after and we waved goodbye to my Tai Chi / colonic irrigation friend......he was last seen holding another conversation with a young lady holding tightly to a dog......I dread to think how that conversation ended....probably with a call to the Gendarme 😊
2 miles later we found our night's resting place - and its wonderful. Good facilities nice people on reception, who rightly or not, kindly praised my schoolboy French!😊. Well I give it a go and luckily most folk have an understanding of what I am trying to say.
Sadly, not all try...the chap behind in the queue started with 'hi, do you speak English?'.....Atleast TRY!
The sky was blue, the wind nearly non-existant and things of ours were drying out after successive days of downpours
There are several other cyclists camping tonight and all seem quite friendly......if a little put out as we have chosen to put our tent between pitches. Ooops. Pardon Monsieur.
Going Home Day 13
We woke late (7.30) after yesterday's efforts and I would happily stay another but Kathy wished to bump on.....so we pushed on.
Amazingly Kathy was still feeling groggy with an unwell stomach and yet was content to go.
The forecast showed that the temperatures would be 27 at 10.00, 31.5 at 12.00 - enough to suck the energy from us but hot is preferable to winds and rain....so again, no complaining.
The temps were clearly affecting drivers too. One driver, reversing away from a boulangerie, no doubt with the daily baguette and a croisant au chocolate, and was looking only one (wrong) way and was on course to reversing in to us.
A VERY loud shout from your author brought the driver to their senses and the car stopped with a slight skid on the gravel.
I have come to the conclusion that folk with these new cars (that sound alarms as they reverse) have forgotten that looking is better than waiting for the continuous alarm.....or bump.
After a few rolling hills took their toll on Kathy and with only 10k to go we thankfully found the canal path for Nevers.
At a canal junction and distracted by manoeuvering boats and lock gates I missed a turning.
2k later at a bridge not expected on our route I looked again at the map and had to report to the ever- patient Kathy that once again I had erred.
'Do you know where we are though'? with a slightly disappointed/fatigued/threatening look.
Relieved, I was able to say 'yes' and 'we are not far from tonights camping, maybe 3k.'...
And off we set. At the 2k point we found an unmapped supermarket meaning we could shop and find the camp without a need to weave in and back out of what is clearly a traffic swamped town.
On arrival at camp site, we were met by a very young French lady who immediately spoke in English to us without us even getting off the bikes.
In my best schoolboy French - which has served us very well so far - I told her we were looking for a space for the night for the two of us and the tent with electricity.
Clearly she had chosen to ignore 'with electricity' as we were directed to the riverbank /flood plain area.
I chose to do some ignoring of my own and headed to a higher area where there was an electric supply.
'No!....I told you over there somewhere! very abruptly
I sighed and repeated that we required electricity for the night.
'What'? You want electricity ..... do you have the cable and correct connection' ( we have both thanks to 'beautiful' Pascal back in Suze la Rousse) asked in a questioning agressive/rude tone still in English
'Oui Merci' Nous voudrons electricite.
'Why do you need electricity' in English.
At this point I felt impatience growing within me and I walked to a spot I liked.
Pour La Cuisine, madame.....for our cooking.
'Reeaally? In an unbelievable sarcastic tone.
Oui, I snapped and put down the bike and began to unpack beside an electrical point
Dont come here folks. The receptionist is desperately rude. She would do well in a doctor's surgery 😊
We have enjoyed every campsite on the way and I hope this is the exception. While abusing the wifi (free) Kathy later heard the lady being equally rude to another new arrival. Bienvenue Nevers.
Going Home Day 14.
We woke at 6.15 and fed and watered by 7.45. We were out of town on a quiet but fast route with a very gentle breeze nudging us along. We were half way, in Breffes, within an hour and I was wondering how. Did I get the distances wrong?
In short. Yes! The day's intended campsite was reached by 10 and after a brief chat and look around we decided that it was not for us. As we were leaving we met another couple similarly loaded and we stopped to chat.
In French we greeted the cheerful mid-aged couple
'We go Holland....no speak England or France'.
'Ok no problem.....bon route' I replied
He shrugged and off they went.
Bizarre. I have no understanding how folk can go on a cycling/walking trip and not be able to communicate in anything but their home language. Atleast have the basics.
Anyway, on we went confident that our decision to continue was correct.
As we rounded the first corner we saw a sign for Sancerre indicating 25km. That will do nicely.
Within a mile we picked up Route de Napoleon......a path raised above the low laying /flat land.
There was nothing but birds tweeting. Herons, dragonflies, large 6/7 inch bright green lizards, hunting birds and only a few cyclists and walkers.
The following breeze soon brought us to within sight on Sancerre located on top of a cheeky slope. More of that slope later!😊
The cycle path led us in to the pretty village, sat at the feet of Sancerre, and to a small canal haven and boat yard before the campsite.
The campsite is in a wonderful position, perched on the west bank of the Loire and has many trees to provide much needed shade.
After a shower and putting up the tent, we ate and both of us promptly fell asleep.
Bliss....😊
When we awoke we decided to look for a bank to withdraw spending funds. The nearest withdrawal point is in the town of Sancerre.....up a long grinding hill not unlike the one that loops up Mont Ventoux, just shorter.
As we climbed we met 4 Brits who were holidaying in a nearby gite (lucky them 😊) and they were wondering out loud about what route to drive.
Naturally, with electric map to hand, we stopped to offer assistance. 20 minutes later after a pleasant chat, we left them and we headed upwards.
Our chosen route took us up on to the Roman? viaduct standing high above the village.
Its very impressive and a taking a few photograps we pressed on upwards. With the bikes unloaded the climb proved to be merely a little sweaty (temps were up to 29c)
We found the cash point....which rejected my card but thankfully accepted Kathy's. After weaving through the pretty streets admiring the varied ancient architecture we found a viewpoint located beneath the town's chateau.
The 180 degree view of 25 miles distance made us both 'wow' and we celebrated our good fortune with a bottle of pepsi.....sorry teeth 😊
The descent, as with Ventoux, was cooling … and exciting on the few gravelly corners/bends and we were soon back at the village and spotting a pharmacie stopped for a top up of insect-bite cream.
The very patient pharmacist gave us directions back to the camp.....to rond point ( roundabout.) (New word for the day😊)....et gauche.....voila!
We were soon at the campsite and grateful for the shade where we prepped carbonara and settled into a restful and satisfied evening.
Going Home Day 15
Yesterday it was decided that day is a rest day.....so resting we are. After a late slow start, we ate at ten then hunted down the local supermarket where I was able to people-watch from the shade as Kathy carried out the daily 3-meal-shop.
The result of my people-watching ....sad, is my only comment.
As 2 older folk have said to us....France is different to 10 years ago and in 10 more will be changed beyond recognition.
The littering and illegal dumping is not unusual - but not yet common. 10 years ago both were rare. infact France was as clean as Germany.....as clean as Jersey back in the early 80s. Life is being lived fast and with small regard for others.
The patonque/boules areas seem to be virtually unused (except in the village of Bedoin /Ventoux ) and are grassing over.
Feeling less chirpy after people watching we returned to the campsite to sip tonic water, sit and read in the shade of the trees - enjoying the 25c temperatures and cooling breeze.
While sat reading 2 blackbirds hopped passed my feet no more than a metre away and they were soon followed by a tiny red squirrel. A blue tit is flitting ariund and one is able to hear a delightful chorus of varied contented? birds tweeting loudly from the shrubs and the tree tops.
Tomorrow we head for Gien which we hope will be as delightful as this pleasantly restful sanctuary.
We have new neighbours on the site. 2 jolly folk from Nederlands....a very nice surprise after the previous encounters with 'Cloggies'. I am delighted to see both he and his wife are each wearing an orange shirt . 😊
At 17.00 a huge lightening storm is immediately overhead......quite unnerving.....be brave little soldier .....as we were sheltering and awaiting the last of the rain we were visited by a robin....our first of this trip.
I noted the near continuous sound of birds twittering is nearly silent. Natured quietened by itself.......and wifi has gone down. No great loss really. ☺
Going Home Day 16
To Gien 60k.
I woke at 5.00 which is a bit annoying as last night I felt like I needed a decent sleep
We set off at 7.30 with heavy dark grey clouds above but a decent following-breeze.
We followed the road running alongside the Canal Latoral de la Loire and we were soon speeding (for us) along the flat road
After 90 minutes we were approaching slight rolling hills so I took the gamble of following voie velo signs. Mistake!😕
We twisted away from the road and ended up on a newly laid chalk-type surface and we slogged hard for 30-40 minutes twisting through pretty countryside where we saw a heron, a yellow-backed woodpecker, a fisherman catching a small black bass and a sleeping pair of big horned goats.
Nice distractions indeed.
Another 10 minutes went by and I had decided that we should look to return to the canal road as rolling hills were now behind us.
We came to the old iron bridge that leads to Briare....but there was a partial closure of the bridge/s which spans the river and neither of us wished to stand and wait as a fine drizzle was falling. Standing in the wet does not do it us. So, Briare will have to be visited on another trip. 😊 As we turned our backs on Briare bridge we rolled into a small village where we fortunately picked up the road we had left earlier.
Someone, somewhere is looking after us.....(we often talk about how much good fortune we enjoy - along with some life-tests - and chat over the idea that my dear old Dad and Kathy's beloved Mum are uniting to make sure our lives are a joy but, naturally, with a few tests chucked in to ensure we remain grounded). We hope that they would have approved the challenges we set ourselves. I hope so. Both were truly great and generous people - each loved adventures - and we often remember them lovingly and wish we had all met.
Right..... Back to the cycle trip.
To my delight, as we rejoined our preferred road we passed a sign showing that todays target town was only 11k away. As we pressed on, the drizzle stopped but the breeze turned 180 degrees and I was cycling with a headwind with Kathy extremely close behind ( tucked in to miss most of the breeze) and needing to occassionally apply her squeaky brakes when a stronger gust slowed me.
The skies brightened slightly as we entered Gien and the Church and Chateau overlooking the ancient multi-arched bridge brought us to a halt and had us reaching, once again, for our cameras.
As we sit in our campsite opposite the pretty riverside town enjoying the warmth of a part-cloudy sky, Kathy reading and myself supposed to be plotting tomorrow's route, 3 chaps were chatting as they carried out some fence repairs on the waterfront while 2 others are playing (to prove me wrong?) patonque/boules and we were lulled to sleep....what a life! Long may we have the energy to enjoy such a life 😊.
When we had woken from our dozing in the afternoon sun, we took our cycles and went up to see the church ....and town...(nothing special). Outside the church are a few printed boards containing replicas of photographs of the church and immediate area in June 1940.
Savage butchery by invading forces was taking place between Gien and Paris and folk were fleeing. In mid-Jun the Germans bombed the church.....because they could??? ..... destroying the main body leaving only the bell tower. Of the church-house and chateau we saw no mention, maybe they were saved to allow officers of the invasion force to be suitably accommodated.
There are photos of the bridge and an explanation that on June 16, 1940, 1,000,000 fleeing people crossed it to escape southwards.
Bournemouth has about 100,000 residents. Can you imagine 10 times the population of Bournemouth .....10 times!!!....attempting to cross a tiny bridge in one day, each carrying precious possessions and the vulnerable
When we visited the since-rebuilt (in 1950s) church we found a peaceful place with beautiful religious music, being played softly, over speakers. It was soothing.....but the exodus of 1,000,000 stayed with me and left me quite emotional.
Tomorrow we move on but a small part of Gien will go with me.
Going Home Day 17
To Olivet, Orleans
We left early...8.00 to catch the forecasted breeze. We chose well and were soon zipping along.
It was clear that Kathy was not her usual self and was quickly fading on the gentle and short slopes.
We ate the same but I ate lots. Kathy ate less than her normal quantity.
Last evenings meal was chips (low on the gi ratings). ...low gi means low energy return ..... means a tough day when on tour. In equals out.....or suffer.
Sadly, she was clearly going to suffer.
As we approached a small village Lion En Sullins we noticed decorated chairs, some in the strangest of places, mostly at the driveway of houses.
Outside the office of the Marie there were several decorations and an ideal time to stop / rest and partially recover and grab another photographic memory
Soon we had to get going before the breeze faded. We were soon in the busy Sully sur Loire and discovered a truly beatiful moated chateau on the edge of town....on the banks of La Loire.....More rest for more photographs.
5 minutes later we were back undeway and found the first road that was in terrible condition and it wasnt long before we found the reason. The road was carrying hgv after hgv - each giving us plenty of space though - but the longterm damage those hgvs are doing was our obstacle course for the rest of the trip.
D951 from Sully to Olivet should be avoided by cyclists or your beloved and trusted steeds will soon need repairing,..... again.
Halfway (20 miles) came and went and Kathy was losing more speed and I was needing to ease up to provide a mental tow-rope . She looked very tired as the first sign for Olivet appeared and our speed had dropped and we were now slow mobile obstacles for other road users.
At times we pulled out of the way into a layby or a side road to allow the great drivers of France to skip passed and get on their way.
On one such occassion I slowed and mounted the lip of a drop kerb to get on to a cycle path. 50 metres later I had to reverse the process and did not slow enough. As I dropped off the drop kerb I felt the bike slip as if I had broken a spoke or worse, the wheel had 'pringled'...but all seemed Ok over the next 20 metres so we pressed on and soon we entered the outskirts of Orleans and soon after, Olivet.
The clearly marked campsite is down a tiny lane and we had found ourselves another fabulous site. The gateway sign showed 'Complete' but thought we woukd ask if they 'had any room at the inn'.
'Ah Oui' said the charming young receptionist 'pour les cyclists nous avons le space special.'
A special place for cyclists. Fantastic!
We unloaded the bikes then ate. Kathy went off to shower. She was taking so long I decided to start putting up the tent alone. Soon after Kathy appeared, limping slightly. 'I slipped over after getting out of the shower and smashed my coxyx. Ouch.
'Ok sit and rest now....want a brew?' (how British😊). A brew solves 95% of all lifes problems....here's hoping. Bungees were looped together and Mother Tony hung out washed cycling clothes as the water boiled. 'My tyres need air in them too' Kathy said.......OK was the reply of this multi-tasker :-)
As I moved Kaths bike I noticed her rear pannier rack was loose so I tightened the guilty bolt.
I'll check mine too......My rear rack bolt was sheared! That explains the pringle-feeling earlier.☺
Extract both pieces of bolt, replace with the only spare ( which is too long) and go to our friendly receptionist and ask to borrow a - panto-time....mime of sawing and hold up a piece of the bolt
Ah .Maman!
Oh God!!!! She's been offended and calling for her no-doubts scary mother.
Mother duly appears....a quick explanation....mother disappears momentarily then reappears with a hacksaw. @Voila! Un scie….prounounced see.
Note to self - carry more spare bolts .....and a hacksaw blade, if not a complete junior hacksaw.
Merci, Maman. 😊. Voys etres tres.....gentile.....though Maman is rather Jolie too, but I think it was wise of me to refrain from using my favourite Pascal-esque chat-up line, especially infront of the pretty young receptionist....but then again.....😈
In 5 minutes the bike is fixed and all other bolts checked and tightened as necessary before giving the spokes a tweek but not before starting the route plan for tomorrow.....the most complicated so far.
And shall I start the spag bol ???? And would you like another brew first? 😊
Kathy would do it all of the above for me so its only fair.😊
Brew made, spag bol cooked and enjoyed, route completed its time to write about today. I think to myself, this should be exhausinting - am I getting fit again. I hope so.
As we sit in the shade of the trees all jobs for the day completed, Kathy eases out of her chair, grabs her bike and finds that cocking her leg over the cross bar causes only slight pain.....how is sitting on the bike and cycling....its Ok says the Iron Lady. How I admire her get-on-with-it spirit. WHAT a fine lady! 'We go early tomorrow' she says with a huge grin.
To celebrate we shut down this note and go find us a white wine for herself and a beer for me. What a lucky chap I am.
We enjoyed a chat with the site manager then a drink of wine.....not good prep for tomorrow ...... so maybe only 40 miles not 50 😀
Going Home Day 18
Kathy's back was ok - if still a little sore. We had a slow start packing and prepping slowly but not before Kathy confirmed she could get on, and ride, the bike without discomfort.Neither of us wished to leave but move on we had to.
By 8.30 we were out of camp and following D14 then D951 heading westward. As we left the town we encountered a chap carrying a sleeping bag slung looosely over his shoulder who was having a one directional loud argument with a cafe chair......and seemingly the chair was getting the upperhand.
We pressed on, leaving the argument ringing in our ears, as the wind nudged us along with only a need to withdraw funds stopping us at a cashpoint. After Kathy tried to use my card (put your glasses on 😊) and then the correct one but using the wrong pin the patience of the fellow behind was wearing obviously thing. With funds restored we were out of town and back in the countryside.
We planned a 50 mile ride for this leg and were well topped up with water and our speed was kept down to minimum effort.
We saw a live rabbit! - worthy of note as it was the first one, more beautiful chateaux as we raced along and soon picked up the signs for Blois, the halfway point and then found a voite verte to follow that would lead us to Chateauneuf Sur Loire. For us it was an immense and exhausting distance, made worse by the increasing heat and lack of a cooling headwind.
Many water-dowsing stops were made and eventually the campsite perched on the banks of the river was reached.
We had been here previously with Kathy's girls, Sophie and Suzie when I cycled Barcelona to Paris and it was noteworthy as atleast 10 airballoons had passed overhead late in the evening and we hoped for a repeat performance - what are the chances?
As the pace of the breeze dropped the sky filled with colour and hey presto our wishes had come true....air balloons. As we happily watched in the late evening we saw two thin teenagers walking on to the campsite, holding hands, and after selecting a spot for their tent, put up a tiny little thing and we laughed. No need for lots of space for youngsters, eh.
As we watched the kids we heard a thump, thump, thump of a huge engine and we turned to see a 1956 Cadillac - an exact duplicate of the one owned by our neighbour, a real treat for us and photographs were taken and a nice chat with the owner from Belgium
A great way to end the day.
Going Home Day 19
We had an early 5.30, but slow, wake up after yesterdays efforts. Kathy was still a bit sore from her tumble. As we were quietly cooking and prepping to leave we heard the distinct sound of air balloon gas burners/heaters. Turning to the east we saw yet more air balloons - the same as yesterday evening? - flying low over the tree tops......and we noted the speed at which they were travelling towards the west, as we would be soon.
We hoped to make good distance again with the decent breeze and packed quickly and ready to go by 7.00. We left camp, going straight through the bridge and continued for 400 metres where we picked up the road heading west......and with little traffic on the roads, assisted by the breeze, we were zipping along, yet again
Before long we arrived in Amboise which looked very pretty and we agreed that we would take pictures after doing the early shop (it was Sunday ). After buying our necessaries (and a few unnecessaries) we had nice chat with french chap outside shop about cycling and rugby and maybe distracted by the chat we left by the wrong exit and didnt realise, maybe because we had once again picked up a decent tailwind and were enjoying the speed and ease of travel. It was only when we crossed a railway bridge and saw the beautiful Chateau of Amboise 3 or 4 miles away we realised.....another one to come back to. Oh well
we ended up on the D951 which is very nice road on a Sunday......we wouldn't have used that route on any other day. Light traffic, tailwind and good road surface is always a bonus and it wasn't long before we were on the outskirts of Tours and quickly on to Luynes where we found a fabulous campsite and Gardien. The folk in charge are lovely and were kind enough to allow us to converse in French - without a hint of amusement of our efforts
It is so nice, electricity, pool and wifi thrown in we decided that we would spend 2 nights before the last big push for Angers and home. We gained new words thighs are jambe and calves are mollets from two fellow French touring cyclists. As its rest day tomorrow we rewarded ourselves with a visit to the small campsite bar and some beers and chips too.
Luynes is a tiny hamlet with a new-build extension on the outskirts, as with many French villages and seemingly only the Brits wish to purchase the Centre Ville buildings and the French want only the modern properties where they have gardens and a place to park their cars outside their front doors.
Going Home Day 20 - Rest Day
I woke at 6.30 to hear commuters doing their stuff and promptly returned to the land of nod and re-awoke at 8.30 hearing a gang of chaps dismantling a huge marquee in the next door field. Soon after we were breakfasting while enjoying yet more warmth from another early morning sun.
By 9.30 the local infant school can be heard singing??? chanting in unison part-tunefully as only school children can - and doing so loudly. It's not an unpleasant sound - I can think of worse noises.
Today we cycled up the hill to Luynes....isnt there always a hill to the town? 😊 to buy the necessary items for our next 3 meals before a nose around town and whiz back down the hill to the campsite where the warm pool awaits to refresh our recovering bodies.
Our final 3 days of cycling are decided.....I say 3 days on the assumption /presumption that we can board a train at our chosen station of Angers....apparently not prounounced ANGERS as in cross, but Onjers.
After the shopping was completed, and on the drop down into old Luynes, we saw the sign for a Roman aqueduct. Back up the hill we went.....always a hill.....and 2k later we found the remainder of an aqueduct with dubious/ questionable (to me) history. Interesting all the same and it adds to the overall interest and history of yet another pretty French village which is, happily, free of Big Mac stores and all things 21st century
We lunched on pasta and tuna....I had to add my own blue cheese to taste as chef Kathy saw no need for fromage bleu dans la cuisine.
My meal was a delight....tasty and energy providing..... A contented apres midi awaits. 😊
Going Home Day 21
Last night sleep was a real struggle. I woke a few times - once thinking I was caught in a rain shower - I was sweating! Horrible. Another sip of water and sleep carried me on to the next rain shower.....and repeat.
The forecast told us that by 11.00 the temperature should reach 29 so we planned to leave early with 40 miles to do.
The dreaming woke me again, at 5.30. At 6 we ate and dropped the tent.
We left at 7 and took on the first of the day's two climbs to the top of the village then onwards.
Soon we entered the coolness of a very large woods and the 2nd climb. (All downhill from here - ye right!).
We kept off the bigger roads and went from village to village (large Norman-Type church, patisserie, pharmacie and an oldie (making their way to or from the village recycling bins)...the relaxed peace only temporarily disturbed by puffing cyclists and a 'bon jour' to the crazy Anglais....who nod with a smile and reply with their own ' - jour'..... heat-induced fatigue and quantity of greetings by now has shortened the greetings. 😊
One such village I missed a fork turn resulting in 2k error...and yet again, no complaints, amazingly, from Kathy ....... .
With the error corrected (thanks to maps.me app - on the phone) we went off in the correct direction, in the increasing heat, and found the final road to our destination for the night.
10 miles of straightness, with a slight headwind and occassional trundling HGVs which use the opposite lane to pass us, again, thank you France for your incredibly thoughtful driving regarding cyclists.
The headwind finally got to my legs and I pulled into a layby , opposite a road divider, to allow Kathy to take the lead - but she followed me.😊....so we stopped.
As we turned our heads to check before pulling out again, a quiet car, van and 'train' of HGVs rolled passed and we received a toot from one. They probably thought we had pulled in to allow the 'tooter' to pass. 😊. Saying that we usually would do so, if aware of following traffic, but on this occassion it was pure coincidence.
We soon completed the 10 miles , found our shop and, soon after, our campsite.
A delightful site adjacent to the bridge of fairies.....easy tiger!!!!😊..... the site has 20-odd plots but only a few with decent shade 😕
With the kind permission of the Gardien/site manager we rested in a shaded area until an obvious place would become apparent (tucked behind a glamping pod and beneath a weeping willow). Temps now 31 complained the site manager - and that was inside the site office!! When the locals are complaining, you know that something is unusual.
Late in the afternoon a British couple kindly stopped to offer the information thst the village pool is next door, the Gardien from here supervises it.....and the cost to campers 50 cents!
We stay for a heat-enforced rest day tomorrow and will wake when our bodies dictate, not an alarm.35c awaits us tomorrow, 38 the day after......😕
Good night campers. May your dreams be of warm climes, not rain. Sleep well.
Going Home Day 22
Bauge (pronounced Boje) stopover due to expected heat was fruitful.
We woke late and had some fun shopping - yet again forgot to weigh and get sticky label with price the before hitting the till. Never mind. Item left at till 😊
We gained the cheap access to the town swimming pool but only Kathy had corrrct swimwear......note to self buy.... something suitable for the pool; day shorts do not count!
The top temperature according to the pharmacie sign was 36c and many clothed-showers, paracetamol and head-soaking along with hiding in the shade was order of the day.
We have created a new plan for the trip tomorrow which is slightly longer but better for the last leg to train station in Angers. Pronounced Onjers.
We hope to be on the receiving end of a friendly 55Kmh 30 mph wind to speed us along and allow us to near-effortlessly tick off the 30 miles.
Hopefully , by leaving early, 7.00, we will arrive Angers around 10.00 hopefully before the temps get up to forecasted 38.
Lasy day of riding
We were awake and gone by 6.45. The ride away from the campsite took us back through the town, passing the Chateau and an impressive Greek-looking building. We were soon back in the countryside and enjoying the gentle tailwind breeze and cool and peace of the early mornings. Few vehicles passed us and only the one of note. A slightly battered, dark green Citroen went passed us at high speed using the left lane - which is expected by now, but on a long left bend. Did the driver have xray vision? or just a fool. The 'A' sign on the rear window indicates a new driver, so I assume the driver to be young and by the terrible and dangerous driving, young.
We travelled another 5 miles, the wind increasing along with the temperatures and as we reached the crest of a slope we encountered a red flag on a red sign, a white car with hazard lights flashing and we slowed.
As we saw no reason to stop at the white car , we progressed further and passing the crest of the slope was the reason for the flag and hazard lights- the green car had crashed into a ditch, seemingly rolled or tumbled and was wrecked. The young male driver was out of the car and sporting only one scratch a testament to modern vehicles.
He was clearly upset but was being comforted by the mid-aged lady of the white car. We had no reason to hang around and we offered them both a 'bon chance' and headed down the slope in to the woods and in the direction of Angers.
The route in to the city took us through Trelaze and there we spied a patisserie - its the last day shall we buy something yummy - indeed.
As we munched our rewards an older gent (wearing beret and striped shirt - no onions) on an old bike stopped to admire our loaded bikes. 'I remember my days of touring' he said. 'Great days, great times' he added with a distant look and a smile as he recalled his own memories of yesteryear.
We chatted about cycling and France in general before he left us with a warm handshake and a 'bon route'.
'Merci, monsieur - et vous'
We pressed on in to the city - amazingly with still very few vehicles around, even at 8.30. Very soon we were in the centre of the city coming to the tram lines - left but mind the rails.
We stopped to confirm with Maps.Me and as we did so a tipper truck with crane attached attempted to squeeze in to an old coach house entrance. Gates opened - tick. Engine back on - tick. Engage gear....crash. the driver had not checked the height of his vehicle against the height of the archway (or electrical cable stretching beneath the top of the archway).
A loud crash brought a small laughing audience and were quietly shaking their heads at the idiot driver - who seemed pretty nonchalant by the whole affair. he wrapped up the broken cable, lowered his crane and drove in to his place of destination. Bizarre.....but amusing.
We pushed on in the correct direction and soon found the sign for the Gare Saint Laud. As we entered the super modern station we met a member of staff who provided us with fantastic assistance and we were soon armed with tickets back to Cherbourg and home.
As we loitered we met a bunch of other cyclists - clearly British - who we engaged in conversation.....we're from Bournemouth, they said. As are we - shocks all round. They were on a small 5 day trip to get some man-time together.
We all squeezed on to our train heading to Cherbourg, bags removed from bikes to allow better storage and within an extremely hot 90 minutes we were at Caen and nearly home.
Caen to Cherbourg train was speedy and cool with bikes hung up by the front wheel. A great innovation allowing loads of bikes to be loaded using little space.
In to Cherbourg and the ferry terminal where Kathy was engaged in conversation by two elderly British cyclists from Wessex cycle - one from Sturminster and one from Wimborne. Its a small world. They had been on a small 7 day tour of Normandy and enjoyed a great experience. It was the 20th tour in France....amazing.
Once on the ferry, we tried but failed to secure ourselves a cabin for the night crossing and as we sat in the most comfy chair we could find we fell into conversation with another British chap, who, it turned out, was brought up in Bournemough and went to St Peter's here in town.
He is now living near Angers and working as an art restorer and loving life.
Bournemouth and cycling brings many conversations and many good memories. We dozed a while while the ferry stopped mid-channel - for 3 or 4 hours - as is the wont of Brittany ferries and awoke to grab a cooked breakfast with our artist friend before disembarkation. We waved goodbye to him and were soon back on home soil. No sooner had we left the port, but we heard a toot and we were met by Suzie and Mike. Mike was dropping off Suzie who was going off to sail the Isle of Wight race while Mike went off to work nearby with the RNLI. It was lovely to be home, but the icing on the cake was meeting Suzie and Mike .
The rest of the trip home was in to a headwind - ofcourse - along the prom - and then the 'have you got the keys'. No. Have you'. Keys found we abandoned the bikes in the side alley with the view to unload later. Sleep called us.
In the afternoon, we unpacked to start up the washing machine, admired, and were grateful for, Sophie's grass cutting but the plants and shrubs were in need of attention....but that can wait.
The following day, already suffering from itchy feet - but still fatigued by 24 hours of train and ferry travel, we headed for Branscome and Decathlon to purchase some tent poles as ours were shredding. That achieved it was home for more unpacking, more washing and more kip.
what a great adventure......its to Italy next for sister-in-laws 40th birthday....but that's next year.
All have a plan - always have a reason to do something - always have something to look forward to - always have a challenge.
thanks for reading.....if you wish to contact us about any of the above we can be found on therealtonylane@hotmail.com.
Safe travels and may the wind be always on your back and the hills always be a descent (if only)
